In twelve years, the Spanish gastronomic sector has registered enough changes to consider that it is subject to a new market environment with more diverse actors and a much wider range of activities than in previous decades. Broad to depict it. That figure is an average, not just any period Between closing ElBulli On July 30, 2011 as a restaurant and the Inauguration of ElBulli1846 As a museum, it will become a reality on June 15. “If I were starting now, one of the things I would do is give the kitchen an economic value,” he admits. Ferran AdriaIt is set to open a 4,000 square meter exhibition center at Cala Montjoi in the former location of its gastronomic venue on the Costa Brava, where tickets can be visited for €27.50.
“Creative restaurants act as accelerators. If Spanish chefs strike tomorrow, the 33% of the economy has fallen“, Adrià insists. His assessment is more accurate than it seems, because this chef-thinker refers to calculations that are out of date, and this is the only way to measure its meaning from an economic point of view. See the field of gastronomy: a report KPMG Published in January 2019. Under the argument that the economic analysis of gastronomy should include the set of related activities that make up the value chain, the audit and consulting firm added production. Agriculture, Livestock and Fisheries, Distribution, Food and Beverage Sector, Hospitality and Culinary Tourism, To get a concrete result: considered in this way, gastronomy represents a production of 388,000 million euros. 33% of GDP.
What is gastronomy and what is not gastronomy? “Everything is gastronomy”, he used to say a few years ago Ferran Adria, Won as a key architect of change in contemporary haute cuisine Elbulli, There, beyond foam and other cooking techniques, he changed the organizational model of a restaurant, loosening the relationship with the restaurateur, while devising a creative system applicable to other sectors, causing the current foodie fever – who is not done talking. About a table of something called gastronomy? -. “At the end of the eighties and the nineties, we lived a magical moment. It was unimaginable that a country like Spain would reach that place in the gastronomic world. Big change This was between 1994 and 1996, but it took several more years before what we did became known. It wasn’t a quick burst; I take my time. I arrived in 1983, and it wasn’t until 2003 that The New York Times cover story was published, which made a huge impact. [con su dominical títulando en portada “The Nueva Nouvelle Cuisine”]”, recalls Ferran Adrià. “Back then, there were no social networks and the New York Times Bible. He chose a very provocative topic. There were very strong attacks. Then the restaurant magazine list [The World’s 50 Best Restaurants] It changed everything and globalized it, so France saw that it didn’t have to fight against us, but against everyone,” the chef explains.
Encourage other industries
How can gastronomy help promote other Spanish industries? The most direct beneficiary is tourism: 20% of tourists – more than 12 million – come to Spain motivated by its good food. Additionally, 86.5% of Spanish travelers say they have taken at least one culinary trip or getaway in the past two years, according to a survey by the consulting firm. Streamlines Created in 2023. What are you here for? A commercial fabric with more than 300,000 bars and restaurants, most of which are SMEs. piece of High kitchen May be represented by 250 spaces with star Michelin guide, which has 13 maximum three differences; Apart from the fact that there are 7 businesses in Spain, the 50 best 100 businesses are: Enjoy (No. 3), DiverXO (4), to Etxebarri (6), Elgano (16), Mukaritz (21), Quique Dacosta Restaurant (42) and, outside the top 50, Assurance (55), in addition El Cellar de Can RocaAs a former world leader, with lifetime status among the best.
But there are many changes in Spain’s economy linked to chefs. With his muse Elbulli 1846 As part of the ElBulliFoundation, Adria has four angels, or partners, who have made it possible for her to stop cooking and focus on replicating, researching, disseminating and preserving the ElBulli tradition without reopening the restaurant: Telefónica, CaixaBank, Grifols and Lavazza. In other words, large listed companies in sectors such as telecommunications, finance or pharmaceuticals consider it strategic to have a top chef as a partner, as well as one of the world’s main coffee groups – whose capital is in the hands of Lavazza. Family-
But there are many more cases. Brothers Joan, Joseph and Jordi Roca to be inside BBVA A partner for a decade, in parallel they have grown from El Cellar de Can Roca to the headquarters of haute cuisine into a family group in which not only their partners are involved, but the generational change is already manifesting through them. sons Mark and Marty Roca. For its part, Santander is Angel Leone’s partner in marine research carried out from the Cadiz tri-star Aponiente.
On the training page, Center for Basque Cooking It was one of the pioneer centers in the world and created a university in San Sebastián in Spain. Degree in Gastronomy This has had a fundamental impact on the industrialization of restructuring. In parallel, chefs like Tapis Munoz (DiverXO), Daniel Garcia (with a group of nearly 20 restaurants, in full international expansion) or Sandro Silva (The umbrella team is coming to Monaco this summer) has pioneered a business structure that includes offices with professional teams from cooking.
And, however, gastronomy has been reinforced as a motor capable of restarting the economy, purely on the hotel side, and Madrid has become one of the great capitals of the world, which for some years has seen the growth of Spanish groups. , attracts foreign companies and struggles to maintain its appeal with a mix of actors.